Saucy Stables New Restaurant

Rebecca Varidel
30th May 2018

19th century Frenchman Auguste Escoffier was not only known as the "king of chefs and the chef of kings" but he's also that guy who designed the Brigade de cuisine (or the heirarchy of the kitchen). In the commercial kitchen, it's known among chefs, alike with other foodies in the know, that the most challenging prize is the sauce, and the most challenging kitchen position is that of the saucier. Back then, and we're meaning more than 150 years ago, cuisine classique French sauces were rich and heavy, and although founded on crafted stocks and reductions, were laden with butter.

Move into the 20th century, and the movement was away from buttery lusciousness took us to new lightness, of nouvelle cuisine. Heavy sauces such as espagnole and béchamel were replaced by seasonings with fresh herbs, high-quality butter, lemon juice, and vinegar. Food shortages in world war rationing as much as new expectation had a place in this, so they say. Then later in the 80s came the thin food of Guérard's cuisine minceur. Lighter still. 

Step into this century, and into the now, and meet the new voice of sauces, Chef Thomas Gripton at The Stables Restaurant Paddington.

In reading the menu we usually get the pitch. We can usually tell when something is up, something a bit special. I confess. I completely missed this. 

Until the plates came out. Herb jus (juice) is both simple and complex and more than the star of the dish. Although by reading the menu you would have guessed the hero would have been the butter poached lobster. The teaser is the generous touch of caviar on the side. We asked for a spoon. And it's been said before, though thankfully the saying is no longer overused, but with the utmost reverence we nearly licked the plates clean. Yet, it was actually my fingers and not my tongue that I used.

And while I'm swooning over the smoked eel and carrot broth, that's the sauce that comes with the John Dory fillet, fingers are once again needed, and this time bread for dipping. The most awesome of sauces also comes with artichoke puree and artichoke chips. Greedily, I get caught occasionally dipping my finger across the table into my mate's mustard jus too.

"I don't use much butter" Gripton explains.

This restaurant food is kind of a contradiction, like the very humble chef himself. Amazing elegance, in casual dining. Complexity and depth of flavour, in seemingly the simplest of presentations. We 'Like' it. Or should we upgrade that with a social media heart?

My only complaint, which I oh so politely shared with the staff is I ordered bread, and got toast. It's not quite the same for sauce dipping.

So here's the verdict. My call out to all dating apps is now this. You can take me out for dinner, if you take me here.

It's a 5 5 6 2 menu. 5 shares. 5 entrees. 6 mains. 2 desserts. That's the choices starting with single Sydney rock oysters. Still, it's hard to decided even then. The shares make good bar snacks. Or in the middle of the table type grazing.

We choose a now less common traditional dining approach: individual plates, start middle and end, three courses. We finished with desserts. And unlike the over showy chocolate saucing desserts seen at less elegant establishments, this chocolate fondant wins us over. A little bit chewy. Just enough gooey goodness. Fabulous flavour. Then, nearly better is the alternative, black tahini sponge - vanilla genoise sponge - orange infused brandy - malted milk ice-cream.

Top tips for service too. All the little things taken care of. With lashings of friendly as the service sauce.

Loading Map....
1 Victoria Street
Paddington
+61 2 9360 0098

Tuesday – Wednesday midday – 9.30pm 

Thursday Midday –  10pm 

Friday – Saturday midday – 11.30pm
Sunday midday – 10pm

http://www.thestablesrestaurant.com.au/
http://www.facebook.com/thestablesrestaurant
http://www.instagram.com/thestablesrestaurant