There’s no need to cross the Bridge for Rollers Bakehouse’s loaded croissants anymore. Tenacious Bakehouse have levelled up the genre with even more artful toppings and tastier fillings, right in the heart of Darlinghurst. The narrow shopfront is mostly taken up with a glass counter displaying orderly rows of the day’s pastry selection. Behind it sit a small number of tables for those who’d like to grab a coffee and eat in.
To my palate this spot excels in savoury products over sweet ones, with the possible exception of the grape tart ($12). It’s one of the most beautiful pastries I have seen, with cheesy custard filling bejewelled with bisected green grapes over perfectly laminated golden pastry. Think of it as a cheeseboard alternative for your next dinner party. It eclipsed the plum tart ($12) with pineapple, plum jam and coconut, and the twice-baked Portuguese tart ($12) made here with a miso glaze, quite savoury egg custard and stiff, burnt (and therefore too bitter) pastry.
The star of the savoury range was the beautifully decorated corn cheese ($10) with grilled juicy corn, crisp corn flakes, almond cream and corn cheese mayonnaise. The takoyaki croissant ($12) takes on the Japanese octopus ball with an interior of tender octopus salad and a flaky fried bonito topping glued on with takoyaki sauce and mayonnaise. Despite their petite size, savoury items—including the peperochini ($10)—are dense and filling. Studded with pepperoni, this croissant is bedecked with bolognaise sauce, a drizzle of ‘nduja oil and roasted rosemary. Yeongjin Park (ex-Lode) packs technique and flavour into every item, including some inspired by his Korean heritage, like pork mandu ($10). This fusion sausage roll teams lean pork and garlic chive dumplings with seed-topped flaky pastry to very good effect. Embrace the multicult by teaming it with your favourite chilli sauce.