Brasserie L'entrecote

Rebecca Varidel
3rd Feb 2017

Perhaps the first thing you'll notice as you enter new Pymble French eating house Brasserie L'entrecote is that it is spacious and elegant. The door is opened for you as you are greeted by a broad smile, vintage trunks and old black Bakelite telephone. On the left is somewhere to sit while waiting for others, a luscious leather couch. The wall sports a man enjoying a juicy cigar. Once you get to the table the elegant details continue, with Brasserie L'entrecote stamped on the white paper tope. Long term food lovers would remember the 1047 Pacific Highway address as the Ad Lib Bistro by famed Sydney Chef Dietmar Sawyere. Coming to the table of this new venture are three French owners. Vincent Ventura and Johan Giaosseran are on the floor. Head Chef François Perego commands the kitchen. Faces which were all previously known at La Grande Bouffe. Fans of that French fantasy are in for an even better ride this time.

The next thing you might notice is the restaurant name. L'entrecote is the restaurant banner that denote venues around the world which feature steak. Each night the restaurant features this one main. Investigations uncover the breed of beef is the French Charolais and its sourced locally from within New South Wales. The cut in case you were wondering, is sirloin. Further investigations prove that the star dish upheld high on its centre piece stand is tasty and mouth wateringly tender. Delicious portions of crisp house made French fries sat beside a separate bowl of walnut green salad. Steak & Frites is $41 per person. Each portion is a generous 250g serve.

Before the feast there is a fabulous list of traditional French starters. These include the most sensational steak tartare I have had in Sydney. The morsels of beef were hand cut to order, traditional accoutrements of capers onions and more striped the pretty blue and white plate. The egg yolk lay resplendent on top, ready for my own deft mixing to please my personal palate. On the side, thin house made potato crisps (pommes gaufrettes) sat at the ready for scooping my ensemble. Be patient with a 20 minute wait for the Twice baked cheese soufflé (la soufflé au fromage). This lightest and ethereally fluffiest creation can best be described as divine. Again its perfection. From oysters to fois gras filled quail there are nine choice of entrées in all.

Each day there is an alternate main of the day ($34); it was a Tuesday night and I had free range lamb shoulder. Wednesday is duck supreme (speck ham, cabbage cherry sauce), Thursday mussels, Friday fish of the day. On Saturday the duck makes its appearance as a leg with crushed potatoes and orange sauce. And on Sunday there's the roast of the day. Vegetarians are not overlooked; during our visit a mushroom risotto was available.

By dessert you will have forgotten you are in Sydney. French heritage again brings Paris to Pymble. Somehow we couldn't go past the first two of the eight delicious classic options, Crème brûlée traditionnelle and Profiteroles au chocolat.

The wine list is an impeccable but moderately priced French selection with a good set of choices by the glass across whites through rosé to reds. Put your trust in the owners and let them match yours. François set me on a different path that resulted in a splendid approval rating. Bar libations from aperitifs to spirits and cocktails are also exceedingly tempting.

Brasserie L'entrecote also offers bar and brunch menus.