With flowing white drapes and wide open windows letting in the still-steamy Autumn night air, visiting Joe’s Table is like being invited into someone’s home. The relocated restaurant, bumped half a klick from its initial spot in Republic, has grown from a 20-seater one-man-operation to a 40-seater. In this new, larger set up, owner, chef and front-of-house, Joe Kitsana, finally has a little help.
Despite his still staff-light approach, our mismatched homely plates are quickly filled with caramelised beef short rib ($43.50) and plain white rice ($4.50/person). Under a hat of fresh and fried shallots the tender rib meat is dark and brooding, tangled with pickled mustard greens. It lacks the fancy restaurant-style on the bone presentation, but eats more enjoyably than similar dishes that have looked better. Barbecued duck ($32.50) served skin-on with sweet basil, snake beans and skinned tomatoes in a red curry sauce is easy-to-like.
Nothing here, including fried silken tofu ($26.50) with woodear mushrooms, garlic, shallots and not quite enough chilli, is revolutionary, but perhaps that’s the point. Joe’s Table is a place to eat a simple Southeast Asian meal when you can’t face cooking at home. And just like you do when you visit someone else’s place, I’d suggest you bring wine. There is a six bottle list but with BYO a very reasonable $4.50 per person, you might as well drink your favourite drop.
