Miss ary

Jackie McMillan
10th Jan 2024

There’s no need to make the trek to Mount Druitt for Korean street food anymore: Miss ary has opened a bricks’n’mortar store in Strathfield. It’s a second go at a restaurant for owner and chef Giwan Kim and pastry chef Sun Young Park, who first wowed me at S.O.G. I loved their fine dining offerings so much I made the long drive west to eat from a trailer in a suburban backyard. This new spot takes the street food items their trailer was known for, like kimbab sangas and K.F.C., and delivers them to you at proper chairs and tables. While it’s certainly fancier than their backyard setup, Missary is still about as far from the fine dining values of their previous Abbotsford restaurant as you can get. 

What makes it likeable is it feels deliberately low-brow and experimental: gonzo contemporary Korean aimed at young people wanting a street food fix. They’re not too proud to up-cycle South Korean food company, Nongshim’s, Yukejang beef noodle soup. We tried it on “Missary small platter 3” ($39) with their original top bok ki (a mix of fish cakes and rice cakes in a simple tomato broth), potato salad and our choice of kimbap. We opted for cheese wagyu bulgogi kimbap ($17) where seasoned shreds of barbecued wagyu balanced on sushi rolls under garlic mayonnaise, bulgogi sauce and a snowy white dusting of Parmigiana Reggiano. Served in a wooden mortar, the potato salad was a bit of a star too. There’s a base of mashed potato and a series of quirky toppings from sausage to fresh cucumber, corn, radish pickles, fried onions, wasabi peas and a soft-boiled egg that you use the pestle to pound into a unified, creamy blend. It all comes on a cafeteria style wooden tray, adding to the student dinner feel. If you want something a bit more serious, the wagyu shallot kimchi rice bowl ($20.50) teams the same barbecued wagyu you’ll find on the kimbap with steamed rice, fresh cabbage, shallots in kimchi sauce, shredded shallots and an egg yolk that you mix until it combines into something sticky and delicious with the brown bulgogi sauce.