When Cassegrain Wines entered voluntary administration last year, the owners of Twotriplefour Restaurant, Pete Cutcliffe and Darren Whitcombe, made the decision to relocate. Moving into the heart of Port Macquarie seems to have paid off for the pair, with the new digs packed to the rafters on the evening I dined. While not as picturesque as the vineyard setting, the restaurant - a few doors down from sister spot Bills Fishhouse + Bar - has an outdoor courtyard and curb-side tables to enjoy the last gasps of al fresco dining.
With Port Mac.’s sourdough bakery also pulling up stumps, my local dining companion’s eyes lit up at the pane toscano with olive oil ($9) before his dreams were crushed by hearing it’s made in-house. The wider menu lends itself to family-style eating. Milly Hill rack of lamb ($78) was our centrepiece, though a 300g scotch fillet ($32) - aimed at one eater but served tagliata on request - stole the show under blue cheese and horseradish butter. Crisp skinned kingfish tataki ($32) was another star against miso and ginger butter. The sides - a bland zucchini, mint and chilli salad ($15) and undercooked steamed chat potatoes with cornichons and honey mustard ($15) (taken off the bill) - were the only disappointments. Smash out a plate of their excellent house-made pickles ($14) instead.
The 2022 Swinging Bridge Chardonnay ($75) from Orange was a good companion to our pickles and the fish. We moved to the Hilltops region with the 2019 Wild Ren Wines GSM ($78) from the NSW-focused wine list with our meats. While the food is simple and produce-focused, the cocktail list shows inventive flair. Sacred grape ($21) teams Mobius Distilling Vodka and First Creek Botanica Cuvée with citrus, Thai basil, star anise and muddled grapes, while the Makers Mark-based campfire ($23) covers dessert in a glass without being over-sweet.
