Convenience culture has mostly robbed us of the beauty of potatoes hand-cut into chips. We can also baulk at the contemporary price for this old-school pleasure. Sourcing sebago potatoes from The Gourmet Farmer in Robertson then cutting them by hand and thrice-cooking them in oil or grass-fed beef tallow isn’t cheap, but this is the commitment to ‘proper fish and chips’ made by Rosie’s in Coledale.
This local fish’n’chips shop is brought to you by the same team who levelled up pate and crispy pancakes at Banh Xeo Bar in Rosebery: chef Ben Sinfield (ex-St. John, London) and Tania Ho. Sinfield directs the busy pass, while Ho bonds with the waiting crowds, explaining of the potato sourcing: “We’ve become their biggest customer.” The fish comes from Fairy Meadow fishmonger, Harley & John Seafood, a spot I regularly buy from myself.
It was flathead on the day I visited, served expertly grilled ($25) or coated in golden, crisp, beer batter ($25). Each serving includes a pot of tangy tartare and more misshapen chips that is easy to finish, even with a pot of roast chicken gravy ($5) that makes dipping very inviting. A more intense British curry sauce ($3) wasn’t as great on the chips, but suited the grilled fillets of flathead. Even with inflation, the potato scallop ($3) felt like a bargain because it was one of the best contemporary examples I’ve tried. With no seating at the store, plan on unwrapping your butcher’s paper parcel of fish and chips on your lap at nearby Coledale or Sharky beach. This is the stuff childhood memories are made of...