You can see the Ottolenghi effect — the championing of vegetables — in the breakfast dishes at Cafe RONTO. True to his time in the UK working under the famous Yottam Ottolenghi, Hungarian-born owner and chef, Gary Ronto, draws from diverse influences to enliven dishes rooted in Middle Eastern and Mediterranean traditions. Turkish eggs ($21) with springy fingers of Turkish toast sit on garlic and dill yoghurt with a double helping of pan-fried leafy greens. The dish is gently flavoured with smoky cumin, chilli butter, dukkah and herb oil, and very easy to enjoy on a hot day.
The same mix of pan-fried kale and spinach nestles under a dusting of Parmesan snow in the truffle Benedict ($21). With braised field mushrooms, shaved asparagus, two free-range poached eggs, and toast under a fluffy lemon Hollandaise accentuated with just the right amount of truffle oil for a savoury umami middle, this plate didn’t need the side of bacon ($4) we added. However the smoky bacon was so beautifully cooked, we scoffed it down regardless.
Baking is another strength of this Umina cafe, which opened back in March 2022. I only had room to try a shared cinnamon scroll ($5) — iced but they also had plainc— and it was the best scroll I have had in years. I liked that it employed cinnamon not the more brash cassia as so many over-sweet and heavier scrolls seem to do. It suited well-made 7 Miles ‘The cat’s pyjamas’ coffees — a strong flat white ($5/regular) and a cappuccino ($4.50/regular) — making this a great spot for morning or afternoon tea.
