Gavroche Chippendale

Rebecca Varidel
4th Dec 2021

In this day and age with required QR check ins, the customer experience starts at the door. At Gavroche in Kensington Street, Chippendale the QR check in is completed swiftly easily and with a warm welcome at ground level, before taking the stairs to the restaurant. Again, the front desk welcome is just that, and unlike many other restaurants lately, the night starts off smoothly.

With more than a sigh of relief, I'm seated for my impromptu dinner, as a single diner and without a booking, with courteous and professional aplomb. Without a sideways glance, or a little niggling remark such as "just" a booking for one. Some of my greatest dining moments have been eating alone, particularly travelling, from street food to 3 star Michelin restaurants. Only in Australia have I experienced "just". But not hear, and I continue to relax into my window seat.

I'm feeling so good, I upgrade my starter from duck liver pate to foie gras, and it is exquisite. The morsels offset and balanced by apple, these pieces swimming in glistening jus, all executed in perfection. The accompanying brioche is all it should be, which is asking a lot of these buttery fingers. The dish makes my stomach smile.

You see, I'd just reviewed a French film Delicious and come straight out of the cinema looking for something to eat. But an excellent movie brimming with good French cooking had me hankering for more than my original intentions. So, here it is. I had arrived at the clothed table.

Not long after, my friend arrived from a different Sydney Scoop event. We can only be in one place at a time after all. So we synched with mains, her choice was beef, mine duck confit. Again, both excellent.

Gavroche Chippendale is a classic french bistro in all its forms, from decor to menu. There is nothing extraordinary about the dishes on the menu; they are the dishes you would expect to see. Yet, what you find at Gavroche Chippendale is an elevated contemporary form of simple presentation that brings these traditional dishes into the 21st century and kitchen craftmanship that knows exactly what to do. Texture. Flavour. All elements preserved to ensure excellent eating.

And then there is service. I may have already hinted how it began. In the last years, regardless of that 'c' word, my heart has sunk at what has been offered front of house. Here at Gavroche Chippendale I am utterly charmed and delighted. Deep in conversation my cloth napkin falls from my lap. My friend picks it up for me. As I blink, our waiter Vadin has arrived to offer a new clean one.

Both Vadin and Anna arrive, although the restaurant is busy, whenever we look up. And, I assure you this is rarely happening elsewhere. Applause.

We thoroughly enjoy our desserts, well timed before they are brought to us, again traditional and well made. My Crepes Suzette was flambeed at the table and was so totally correct that I couldn't do anything but enjoy it.

Dinner is complete with our choice of wines, from a splendid page of choices by the glass.

A truly welcoming ray of light in Sydney dining. Thank you to all the Gavroche team.

gavroche.com.au