Kosta's Takeaway

To understand the expansion juggernaut of Kosta's Takeaway - which recently opened two stores in Circular Quay and Rosebery less than six months apart - I took a trip to Rockdale to see where it all began. The business, which opened in 2021, is a hole-in-the-wall of a smash repairers, fronted by a few tables protected from the baking heat using big canvas umbrellas. The surrounding stools are awash with reflective strips and neon. Kosta’s is very popular with road crews and tradies as their mainstays are big, unfussy sandwiches. 

Beef and pickles ($18) is a golden-brown toastie made on excellent bread. It’s fully loaded with standout pastrami cut by red onions, mustard, dill and pickled eschallots. It’s so big it’s very hard to do it justice, but so tasty you want to do it proud. Fish ($20) contains a big juicy piece of curled flathead looking like it has leapt into the deep fryer in an attempt to get away. It arrives lightly battered on a bun, topped with melted orange cheese and a tangy baby caper-studded tartare. It’s good by itself, but even better with a smear of fermented chilli ($1). Use the rest up on a classic potato scallop ($3) that - if you’re old enough - will pull up memories of 1970s Greek-run suburban takeaways. Owner Benjamin Terkalas - who doesn’t look old enough to remember this wave of hospitality firsthand - named the store for his Dad. His mission is to level up classic sandos that, even at twenty bucks, don’t leave diners feeling fleeced. As I enjoy a classic Greek-style custard tart ($6.50) I muse that he’s nailed it.