Authentic KL Flavors moved their Western Sydney operation to Marrickville in late 2022. Beloved by the Malay community, it’s usually the place to get a twelve buck lunch, but their popular bain-marie was out of commission on the day I visited. For a few bucks more the made-to-order menu offers up nasi kandar ($19.50) as a worthy substitute. It’s still a good value proposition, particularly with the plate’s real estate cleverly extended by waxed brown paper. Hiding under a chickpea flour papadum you’ll find a mound of steamed rice, fried chicken, dark and spicy beef masak hitam, half a salted egg, fresh okra and some pickles. We threw in a piece of turmeric chicken ($5) that was tastier than the fried chook but totally superfluous to need. The beef curry was definitely the standout: nice and spicy with a hint of sweetness to balance its intensity: think of it as a rendang without the coconut.
Ordering a beef laksa ($23) sees you receive a generously proportioned bowl of tasty coconut soup decorated with fried shallots, a boiled egg, bean sprouts and springy tofu. Crisp green beans and other leafy greens help to keep things fresh and balanced against a good amount of beef floating in the soup. Milo ice ($5) with condensed milk and sugar will help to put your mouth back together after either dish, as will a less sweet lime ($6) drink, though both are served in single-use plastics. While simply furnished with hanging fairy lights and a naïve art mural, there’s a lot of warmth in this space. Showing an interest in Malay food is rewarded with big smiles from your hosts and other Malay diners.
