There's a relaxed feel when dining in French bistro Porcine that belies the deep knowledge and skill that are the foundations needed for creating highly crafted French food.
It's been fascinating to watch - and taste - Chef Nik Hill progress through his career. And here at Porcine, Hill has really hit his stride. Stepping into this rhythm presents Sydney with traditional dishes often influenced by French Master Chefs, overlayed with the contemporary Nik Hill signature.
Perhaps the most spectacular of our dishes on the latest Porcine visit was potato scales on fish. Hill, a collector of vintage cookery books and lover of doilies, uses local NSW trevally. Champagne veloute and feathering of watercress puree complete his picture. His inspiration is the most famous dish of the late Grandmaster Paul Bocuse, whose restaurant on the outskirts of Lyon has held three stars since 1965, the longest in Michelin history.
And from more three Michelin stars, renowned French Chef Michel Bras ideated and patented a hot chocolate dessert in 1981, now known as Molten lava cake, a recipe concept that has gone on to overflow throughout the world. The Porcine twist is not in recreating this famous dish yet again, but in presenting the diner with a savoury cheese Australian morph. Molten cheese inside a bigger and better than Flo cheese scone. Ordering this is a must, although the Porcine menu changes daily, inspired by the seasons.
Not only are Porcine plates supremely and perfectly tasty, but this is subtly erudite and clever food.
Porcine patrons demand the Pâté en croûte to always be on the menu. This last lunchtime visits saw every table order a slice. Textbook perfect. And all the more sensational, shown as a whole at the table before slicing.
Salad is composed in the French style with a colourful and pretty plated melange of leaves and kitchen garden divas spiked and spruced and perfectly dressed.
Service is impressive too with wine knowledgeable Harry Levy (also a chef but on the floor) and cocktail emprasario Matt Fitzgerald completing the owners dream team trio. Call me old fashioned, but something beyond magic happens when owners are present working in their own restaurant, in the kitchen and on the floor. Add investigative international food travels to their historical inspirations and culinary comraderie and the resultant restaurant provides the complete package. I couldn't think of anywhere I'd rather be but in this little corner of Paris above a Paddington wine shop.
